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Graves 2004 |
| Pessac-Léognan has turned out some appealing wines this
year. The dry whites are generally of a very high standard with intense
fruit, pure, precise flavours and lively acidity, a total contrast to
2003. The very best have long ageing potential, and parallel vintages like
1996 and 1998. The reds were something of a pleasant surprise. Classic in
style, they lack the depth of great years but are poised and have well
handled fruit, crisp tannins and the hallmark freshness of the vintage. If
the price is right this could be a real consumers vintage. James Lawther
MW Chateau Haut-Brion, 1er
Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan 2004 |
|
Margaux 2004 |
| A very heterogeneous
appellation in recent years, quality was more
regular this year and the elegant style of
Margaux was encouragingly evident. Those
chateaux which managed to preserve this
elegance - Brane-Cantenac, Durfort-Vivens,
Rauzan-Segla - reflected the vintage better
than those - Kirwan, Prieure-Lichine - aiming
for richer extraction. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Palmer, Grand Cru Classe, Margaux 2004 |
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Pauillac |
| In a commune dominated by
Cabernet Sauvignon, those chateaux which
waited through the rain in the second week of
October for perfect maturity - Philippe
Dalhuillin of Mouton-Rothschild said he
preferred some water on his grapes than some
unripeness inside them - had the elements for
making very good wines, and most did. Lesser
growths are now performing well. Some of the
best wines of the Médoc. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Clerc Milon, Grand Cru Classe,
Pauillac 2004 |
|
Sauternes |
| Rain and warm weather in
August favoured the development of grey rot
and caused early anxiety, before perfect
Sauternes conditions (morning mists and
sunshine) arrived in September. This
necessitated much cleaning up in the vineyard
before the collection of botrytised grapes
could begin. An average of four tries was
spread out from 15th September to early
November. The star feature of the 2004
Sauternes is the beautiful freshness of the
wines, which accentuates their fruity
richness. Young Sauternes is never easy to
taste early and this year the problem is made
more difficult by the length of the harvesting
and very cold weather in February-March.
Average yields were around 15 hl/ha, lower
than in 2003 in many cases. After the
exceptional richness of 2003, 2004 is a
classic year of marked character. David
Peppercorn MW Note: chateaux Suau and Myrat
were not judged - samples in poor condition.
Chateau
Lafaurie-Peyraguey, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes
2004 |
|
St. Emilion |
| In 2004, normal weather
conditions returned to Bordeaux, with Atlantic
Ocean, rather than Mediterranean, influences
prevailing. In Saint- Emilion, bud break took
place in the first week of April, with rapid
flowering between 5th and 9th June and very
little gap between Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
The crop size potential was enormous,
necessitating drastic thinning – ideally, two
times, to avoid the vine compensating. The
mid-point for colour change was 6th August for
Merlot and 13th August for Cabernet Franc.
There was rain in August but September was hot
and fine. Harvest dates in this late-ripening
vintage varied considerably according to the
properties, their sites in Saint-Emilion and
their grape varieties, and picking was often
long drawn-out. There are undoubtedly some
very fine wines in Saint-Emilion, combining
richness with freshness, harmony with great
fruit quality. There are other wines that are
over-extracted, leading to unattractive
bitterness. Certainly, 'saignées' should have
been limited in order to maintain balance and,
if the yield had been carefully controlled,
the beauty and health of the grapes should
have shone through. Serena Sutcliffe MW
Chateau
Canon-la-Gaffeliere, Grand Cru Classe,
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2004 |
|
St. Julien |
| A good effort is expected
from a commune with 9/10ths of its surface
covered by cru classés, and as usual there
were few disappointments, but neither were the
heights reached in 2004. Neverthelesss, the
better wines will drink beautifully from
2010-20. Steven Spurrier
Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases, Grand Cru Classe,
Saint-Julien 2004 |
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Top |
| Médoc first growths tasted by Steven
Spurrier; Chateau Haut-Brion tasted by James Lawther MW
Chateau Mouton
Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2004 |
| Wines tasted by Steven Spurrier. (See individual
appellations for general vintage observations and non cru
bourgeois wines.) Chateau Phelan-Segur, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2004 **** Fine deep colour, nose slightly gamey with wild violets, fine expression good extraction and elegance, a polished vineyard wine with good length. Drink 2009-18. (17 points) Chateau de Pez, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2004 **** Fine deep colour, rich and velvety, fine concentration of blackcurrant fruit, smooth and ripe with vineyard definition and great elegance, a lovely, classic Médoc. Drink 2009-18. (17 points) Chateau Chasse-Spleen, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Moulis 2004 **** Fine deep colour, very bright and positive aroma of crushed berry fruit, lovely ripeness, slightly smoky fruit, a really elegant wine, with charm and length. Drink 2008-18. (17 points) Chateau Haut-Marbuzet, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2004 **** Very deep colour, fine floral nose with smoky oak lifting but not dominating the fruit, well-balanced, good future. Drink 2009-18. (17 points) Chateau Senejac, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 **** Fine deep colour, lovely expression of Cabernet/Merlot fruit. Its floral fragrance, finesse and breed stand out amongst some good, but less elegant wines. Drink 2009-18. (17 points) Chateau Belle-Vue, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Medoc 2004 **** Deep intense colour, masses of ripe blackcurrant fruit, slightly smoky. Ripe, smooth and some elegance behind the concentration, with fine dry finish and has the fragrance and freshness typical of 2004. An impressive wine. Drink 2009-16. (17 points) Chateau Villegeorge, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Full colour, lots of blackcurrant fruit backed by quite a bit of oak, will blend into a good, classic Haut-Médoc. Drink 2008-15. (16 points) Chateau la Tour de Bessan, Cru Bourgeois, Margaux 2004 *** Very deep colour, lovely expression of ripe Cabernet grapes (Cabernet Franc 25%), fragrant and leafy, finely made and lovely length. Drink 2009-15. (16.5 points) Chateau Citran, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Full concentrated colour and very marked blackcurrant bouquet, quite chunky and extracted, but has good length of fruit, a bit leafy and perhaps a little green on the finish. Drink 2009-15. (15.5 points) Chateau Griviere, Cru Bourgeois, Medoc 2004 *** Fine colour, fruity and supple with good clear Médoc fruit and good balance. Drink 2001-12. (15 points) Chateau Moulin a Vent, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2004 *** Good colour and smooth, well-extracted ripe fruit. Drink 2007-12. (15 points) Chateau Tour des Termes, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Very big colour, lots of blackcurrant fruit and fine gutsy Saint-Estèphe grip and a certain elegance on the finish. Drink 2008-15. (16 points) Chateau Fonreaud, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2004 *** Good colour, quite bright Cabernet fruit, a little green and herbaceous now, but the fruit should come through. Drink 2008-14. (15 points) Chateau Greysac, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2004 *** Fine deep colour, floral and well-extracted fruit, soft Merlot dominated palate, forward, attractive and well-balanced. Drink 2007-12. (15 points) Chateau Ducluzeau, Cru Bourgeois, Listrac 2004 *** Huge colour, rather over-ripe nose, better balance and grip on palate, plummy and rounded. Drink 2008-14. (15 points) Chateau Fourcas-Hosten, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2004 *** Good solid colour, slight vegetal touch to blackcurrant fruit, but quite good extraction and balance. Drink 2008-14. (15 points) Chateau Brillette, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2004 *** Fine deep colour, fine floral fragrant fruit, elegant extraction and nice smooth balance. Drink 2008-16. (16 points) Chateau Clarke Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2004 *** Very deep colour, concentrated, almost herby/vegetal extraction of fruit, very ripe on the palate, rich and plummy, almost lush for a Listrac with good acidity to add balance. Drink 2009-18. (16 points) Chateau Poujeaux, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Moulis 2004 *** Fine deep colour, big extraction of smoky blackcurrant fruit, rounded and ripe, quite lush fruit, good acidity, good future. Drink 2009-18. (16.5 points) Chateau Maucaillou, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2004 *** Very deep colour, quite big wine, broad fruit, ripe, slightly raw tannins. Drink 2009-16. (15 points) Chateau d'Angludet, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2004 *** Fine deep colour, very floral violets/irises nose, quite plummy palate, just shows an edge of greenness at the moment. Drink 2010-20. (15 points) Chateau Dutruch Grand-Poujeaux, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2004 *** Fine deep colour, fine floral fruit, smooth and elegant and good vineyard expression. Drink 2008-15. (16 points) Chateau Anthonic, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Moulis 2004 *** Very good colour, rich, ripe extraction, very good length and well balanced. Drink 2009-15. (16 points) Chateau Fourcas-Dupre, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Listrac 2004 *** Very deep colour, slightly smoky, concentrated fruit, good depth of extraction and even a certain florality, attractive and supple with good tannins. Drink 2008-18. (16.5 points) Chateau Haut-Beausejour, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Good deep colour, bright and velvety, elegant blackcurrant bouquet with good smooth fruit and balance, a very attractive and supple Saint-Estèphe. Drink 2008-16. (16.5 points) Chateau Coufran, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Very deep colour, deep, well-extracted very ripe fruit, seems very Merlot and blackberry, rounded yet dense in texture, slightly smoky nose, lively floral elements alongside the richness of fruit, quite succulent with a firm finish. Drink 2010-18. (16.5 points) Chateau La Tour de By, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2004 *** Very deep colour, fine expression of ripe small berry fruit, good tannins, good length. Drink 2008-16. (16 points) Chateau la Cardonne, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Medoc 2004 *** Very good colour, fine ripe fruit and an impression of Pauillac firmness and length, good wine. Drink 2008-14. (16 points) Chateau du Glana, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Julien 2004 *** Very deep colour and big solid wine, lots of fruit, quite robust. Drink 2008-15. (15.5 points) Chateau Charmail, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Huge colour, big oaky nose with very ripe fruit, lots of effort to make a fine modern Médoc. Drink 2009-16. (16 points) Chateau Malescasse, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Very deep colour, rich blackcurranty nose, full and ripe, good concentrated fruit, quite firm tannins, good solid wine but lacks finesse. Drink 2009-15. (15 points) Chateau de Lamarque, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Fine deep colour, good concentration of ripe small berry fruit, quite closed but well-knit and good intensity of flavour, attractive middle palate, harmonious long finish. Drink 2010-20. (16.5 points) Chateau Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 *** Fine deep colour, good fragrant fruit, fine smooth extraction, supple, balanced and attractive. Drink 2008-14. (16 points) Chateau Ramafort, Cru Bourgeois, Medoc 2004 *** Fine deep colour, smooth ripe Cabernet/Merlot fruit, attractive and well balanced. Drink 2007-13. (16 points) Chateau Clauzet, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Very full colour, big, rather chunky wine, full-bodied but rather four-square. Drink 2009-16. (15 points) Chateau Beau-Site, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Very deep colour, good plummy fruit and fleshy, rounded wine with flavour and depth. Drink 2008-15. (15.5 points) Chateau les Ormes-de-Pez, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Fine deep colour, smoky, slightly gamey nose, fine blackcurrant fruit, good extraction, smooth and ripe, easy, forward style. Drink 2008-15. (16 points) Chateau Marbuzet, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Very deep colour, shows dense small berry, well-concentrated fruit, smooth with smoky oak, quite a big wine, good future. Drink 2010-20. (16.5 points) Chateau Potensac, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Medoc 2004 *** Good deep colour, good small berry fruit, some leanness, but good classic Médoc. Drink 2009-15. (15.5 points) Chateau la Gurgue, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2004 *** Good deep colour, quite dense blackcurrant Cabernet fruit, still a bit raw, but good depth for the future. Drink 2009-18. (15.5 points) Chateau le Boscq, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Huge colour, smoky oak, a big, meaty, extracted wine with succulent fruit and lots of flavour. Drink 2009-16. (16.5 points) Chateau Monbrison, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2004 *** Fine deep colour, lively floral blackcurrant fruit, just a hint of green on the palate, but the fruit will keep going. Drink 2009-16. (15 points) Chateau Meyney, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Saint-Estephe 2004 *** Very full colour, spicy and masses of Saint-Estèphe body and grip, good ripe fruit with length and character. Drink 2009-18. (16.5 points) Chateau Labegorce-Zede, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Margaux 2004 *** Fine deep colour, good Cabernet fruit, clear and elegant in true Margaux style with finesse and length. Drink 2009-18. (16.5 points) Chateau Labegorce, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Margaux 2004 *** Fine deep colour, fine extract of blackcurrant fruit, slight smoky/gamey good middle ripeness and good length and balance. Drink 2009-18. (16 points) Chateau Duplessis, Cru Bourgeois, Moulis 2004 *** Fine deep colour, good smooth ripe fruit, typical of Moulis combining depth and elegance. Drink 2009-15. (16 points) Chateau Siran, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Margaux 2004 *** Fine deep colour, fine expression of violets and blackcurrants on nose, very attractive ripe fruit, good length and balance, very attractive. Drink 2009-18. (16.5 points) Chateau Beaumont, Cru Bourgeois Superieur, Haut-Medoc 2004 ** Medium colour, pleasant fruity nose, quite nice soft fruit, a little short, but pleasant forward wine. Drink 2007-12. (14 points) |
|
Pomerol |
| The 2004 vintage in Pomerol is clearly
better than 2003. There was little or no heat stress and
the harvest, although later, took place in ideal
conditions towards the end of September/beginning of
October before the rain. As in the rest of Bordeaux, work
in the vineyards to curb yields was obligatory, otherwise
dilution and lack of ripeness were the pitfalls for less
successful producers. The best wines have deep colour, a
racy fruit character, lively acidity and solid tannic
frame. They lack the intensity and complexity of great
years (1998, 2000) but appear to be in the good/classic
mould of a vintage like 1996. If the price is right they
will provide sound medium-term drinking. James Lawther MW
Chateau l'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol 2004 ***** One of the wines of the vintage on the Right Bank. Has the extra dimension that many lack. Deeply coloured, the fruit is at a perfect pitch, succulently ripe but not overripe, with rich but fresh concentration. A touch of liquorice indicates the presence of well-integrated oak. The palate is smooth and svelte with good density and ripe, crunchy, well enrobed tannins. Plenty of vivacity and freshness on the finish. Drink 2012-2025. Vieux-Chateau-Certan, Pomerol 2004 ***** After the difficulties of 2003 a clear success in 2004. Inimitable in style (for Pomerol) with elegance and finesse the watchwords rather than power and concentration. Gently perfumed, complex nose. Fine, ripe, silky texture and tannins. Long and lingering. Overall great harmony and balance. Drink 2012-2025. Chateau Petrus, Pomerol 2004 **** Rich fruit concentration and firm structure but not the added intensity or complexity of great years. Reserved, brooding nose with a minerally note. Smooth, long and balanced on the palate. For the long haul. Drink 2014-2030. Chateau Nenin, Pomerol 2004 **** Quite racy in style. Well presented, open fruit. Reticent but gently fragrant. Sweet ripeness on attack, layered texture, clean and direct although reserved. Lively, fresh finish. Drink 2010-2022. Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol 2004 **** Backward in style, sturdy, imposing. Dark-red fruits on the nose but reticent. Solid, ripe tannic core, robust. A little austere but classic and long ageing. Drink 2014-2030. Chateau Hosanna, Pomerol 2004 **** Attractively made wine and totally expressive of the vintage. Red fruits with a note of sous-bois. Palate shows good intensity and weight in a medium-bodied way. Fine, ripe, crunchy tannins. Long, fresh finish. Harmonious. Drink 2012-2025. Le Pin, Pomerol 2004 **** A very good wine but misses the exotic twist that is Le Pin's trademark in great years. Attractive fruit, rich attack with 'gras' on the follow through, firm but fine tannins. In tune with the vintage. Drink 2010-2022. Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol 2004 **** After the powerful, super-ripe 2003, Lafleur has returned to a crisper, more classically elegant style in 2004. The nose is presently discreet with just a hint of wild strawberries and sous-bois. Medium bodied, the palate has good density, nicely layered fruit, a firm, grippy structure and plenty of fresh minerality on the finish. It's a wine of classic character with good ageing potential. Drink 2012-2025. Clos l'Eglise, Pomerol 2004 **** Rich, full and textured. Dark, purple-black colour. Subdued dark fruit nose. Smooth, layered extract, good depth, powerful but finely woven tannins. Has length. Drink 2012-2022. Chateau l'Evangile, Pomerol 2004 **** Very Pomerol in style. Lots of red fruit, quite lush, full and racy, powerful but balanced with good acidity. Tannins ripe and smooth. Vanilla oak gently present on the nose. Drink 2012-2025. Chateau Le Gay, Pomerol 2004 **** Modern but elegant in style with finely executed winemaking. Nose deep but reticent with just a note of well-integrated oak. Finely textured on the palate with attractive, slightly exotic fruit and fine, ripe tannins. Good length and balance. Drink 2012-2025. Chateau Certan de May de Certan, Pomerol 2004 **** The best from this estate in a number of years. Lovely density and aroma. Bright, lifted, spicy raspberry 'Pinot' fragrance and flavour. Good fruit weight, firm, ripe grippy tannins. Drink 2010-2022. Chateau Clinet, Pomerol 2004 **** Seductive aroma and flavour combined with an assertive structure and weight. Perfumed spice and red fruits on the nose and palate. Rich, full extract, dense but not over extracted. Ripe, powerful tannins. Drink 2012-2022. Chateau la Pointe, Pomerol 2004 *** Deep, lively colour. Full, robust style. Tightly knit with plenty of fruit extract. Tannins firm and long. Drink 2010-2016. Chateau La Fleur Petrus, Pomerol 2004 *** Not a big wine but lovely purity of fruit and elegance. Nose gently aromatic with lively red fruits. Palate soft and supple on attack, bright red fruit and a clean, crisp finish. Tannins fine and long. Could make four stars. Drink 2010-2018. Chateau Taillefer, Pomerol 2004 *** Elegant rather than powerful. Finely textured. Medium-bodied, pure and harmonious. Good value as well. Drink 2009-2015. Les Pensees de Lafleur, Pomerol 2004 *** Very much mirrors the 'grand vin' with the same blend (60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc) but not quite the same depth and intensity. There's a notion of bright fruit, discreet nose and crisp, elegant weight and frame. Drink 2008-2015. Romulus, Pomerol 2004 *** Quite elegant spicy, floral nose. Medium-bodied with a certain 'gras'. Firm, ripe tannins. A little oak dryness on the finish. Drink 2008-2014. Chateau Certan Marzelle, Pomerol 2004 *** Attractive red fruit. A little fluid but just enough depth and purity of fruit for interest. Crisp and fresh on the palate. Fine tannic edge. Drink 2009-2018. Chateau la Croix-de-Gay, Pomerol 2004 *** Medium-bodied with a lively open fruited character. Fragrant dark fruit on the nose. Fresh, elegant texture and weight. Bright, grippy tannins. Drink 2009-2018. La Petite Eglise, Pomerol 2004 *** The second wine of l'Eglise-Clinet. Dark, brambly fruit, meaty and full but less elegance than the 'grand vin'. Good fruit weight with the tannins well enrobed. Lively acidity. Drink 2008-2012. Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol 2004 *** Medium-bodied, harmonious. Brambly Merlot fruit on the nose. Appears a little one-dimensional but pure. Firm, square tannic frame. Drink 2010-2018. Blason de l'Evangile, Pomerol 2004 *** Evangile's second wine is being aged in 70% new oak barrels this year, the rest in tank. The oak is definitely present on the nose, the vanilla overpowering the fruit. The palate, though, seems better integrated, the fruit expressive. This is a supple, round wine of medium intensity for early to mid-term drinking. Drink 2007-2014. Chateau Feytit-Clinet, Pomerol 2004 *** Rich, ripe, plummy extract. Supple, layered fruit. Quite unctuous. Tannins rounded. Warm, almost jammy rich style. Drink 2009-2015. Chateau la Cabanne, Pomerol 2004 *** Surprisingly good this year. Plenty of firm extract, lively acidity, tight tannic structure. A certain earthy concentration. Drink 2010-2016. Chateau le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol 2004 *** Less full-bodied than some years but harmonious, with well-handled extraction. Supple fruit on attack, tannins firm but rounded. Complete. Drink 2010-2016. Chateau Latour a Pomerol, Pomerol 2004 *** The nose is rather demure at present but there's good middle palate fruit, lively acidity and grip on the finish. Will never be a stunner but has classic appeal and medium ageing potential. Drink 2010-2018. Chateau Beauregard, Pomerol 2004 *** Nicely balanced with attractive Merlot fruit aroma and flavour. Lively acidity. Ripe, chewy tannins. Medium weight with good length. Drink 2009-2016. Chateau Bellegrave, Pomerol 2004 *** Medium-bodied with plenty of firm, ripe extract. Sweet fruit attack, good density, grippy tannins. Good potential and always keenly priced. Drink 2009-2016. |
